The beauty industry has come a long way in the last few years. Social media and the increasing awareness that comes from more research and opportunities to learn about ingredients have changed the game for how products are created and marketed.
One of the biggest buzzwords we now see from many brands is active ingredients. These ingredients are chemical compounds that can be found either in prescription doses or over the counter, depending on how concentrated they are. The point of active ingredients is that they target specific concerns and are often paired with inactive ingredients to increase the efficiency of the product. Active ingredients aren’t always synthetic. Some can be derived from natural sources but can also be synthetically created.
We’ve seen a new trend in products for the last few years where active ingredients act as keywords when the products are being marketed. While you may have heard of many of them, you might not always understand what concerns they address or how your skin can benefit from them. We’ve narrowed down the most common ones and how they are often formulated to help certain skincare concerns
Hyaluronic Acid - This is a chemical compound that can be naturally found in our bodies to begin with. Many skincare products, especially moisturizers, include hyaluronic acid because it helps retain moisture in the skin and improve its elasticity. This, in turn, reduces fine lines and keeps your skin smooth and glowy. I’ve personally found that hyaluronic acid makes the skin appear hydrated without having to use thick and oily moisturizers.
Niacinamide - Similar to hyaluronic acid, niacinamide is best known for its hydrated properties, but that is a simplified understanding of what it does. It reduces inflammation and helps the texture and tone of the skin. In some cases, the two work well together, like if you have combination skin and want to maintain hydration while removing any excess oil production. The key to figuring out which one works better is to understand what your skin needs.
Salicylic Acid - Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is known as a gentle chemical exfoliant. Because it's a small enough molecule to seep into your skin, it does a good job of deeply cleansing your skin to remove layers of dead skin and excess oil. Moreover, it’s commonly used to treat regular acne as it calms down inflammation and exfoliates to remove acne-causing bacteria. With that being said, it can cause some irritation depending on how often you use it or if it's compatible with your skin.
Retinoids - Retinoids and retinol are common buzzwords in a lot of products, especially those associated with anti-aging. It increases the turnover of skin cells and boosts collagen, which are key to healthy and younger-looking skin. With that being said, there are many caveats to the ingredients, such as pregnant women shouldn’t be using the product, and depending on if you have acne or dryness, this might not be the right ingredient for you or maybe you need to adjust the dosage or product you’re using depending on what inactive ingredients are included.
Vitamin C - This ingredient is another one known for anti-aging benefits, but has the added bonus of being an antioxidant. Vitamin C is often used to combat damage caused by external factors like sun damage or air pollution. It can also be formulated in so many different ways so vitamin C is more of an umbrella term. While there is some debate about when to use it, it’s usually recommended to apply it both in your morning and night routine and is meant to be applied after you’ve cleansed your face.
While the use of “chemicals” in this context may seem concerning, it’s important to understand that these ingredients and their products don’t go out into the market without FDA approval. Moreover, many brands are aware of the resources and knowledge that consumers have access to, especially as more and more dermatologists create channels and opportunities for skincare education, which means many brands collaborate with medical professionals in the industry to uphold a safe standard for their products while also being more transparent about what they used to formulate their products and why. While all of this is helpful to understanding the products and ingredients better, there isn’t always a guarantee that they work for everyone in the way it's intended. This is why it's important to not only understand your skin and what concerns you want to address, but also seek guidance from dermatologists and other professionals to make sure it's safe for your skin specifically.
Our team is made up of a diverse range of people, all of which have the same passion for this industry. We’ve tested many different brands and products to address so many different skin concerns, from acne and scarring to dullness or aging. Here are some of our favorite brands that include active ingredients in their products and how they can help you.
Apostrophe is a personalized skincare brand that is geared towards acne treatment. Aside from collaborating with dermatology providers to reduce the noise in the industry and simplify the treatment process for each individual, their philosophy is also focused on education and science to create prescription-grade treatments for each individual. Their products range from oral prescriptions to topical treatments, all of which are catered specifically to your needs and come directly from a dermatologist so its both credible and effective.
If you’re a brand that prioritizes sustainability or follows a plant-based lifestyle, you might want to look into Typology as an alternative. Another brand focused on personalization and a scientific approach to their formulas, but with the addition of plant-based products, Typology is committed to including natural active ingredients while maintaining a sustainable mindset with everything from the sourcing of their ingredients to the packaging of their products. Typology allows for more autonomy when picking out products to build your routine, but while the routine is customized to your skin, the products aren’t.
Marketed as “clinical formulations with integrity", The Ordinary focuses is a more affordable brand that focuses on the same principle of skincare backed by science. They’ve designed multiple products and lines that focus on combating specific skincare concerns like aging or dullness. I’ve personally used their serums and exfoliants, specifically their salicylic acid mask and hyaluronic acid serum, and have found great results from consistently using them in moderation. What appeals to me about the brand is how they strip down the messaging and focus on being informative with the ingredients and products so you can just focus on what you’re putting on your skin and how it impacts it.
A much more high-end brand, Biologique Recherche provides products that include more of an investment, but just as much of a payoff. They offer an extensive range of products, including lotions and serums, and cater to the most specific skincare needs. They also offer a unique methodology where they assess the needs of your skin and tailor products and a routine to those needs. The brand is well-praised especially for their anti-aging products, so if this is a need that you’re looking to address, it's worth splurging on the more luxurious products.
